Friday, April 19, 2013

Sniff It! Why You Should Encourage Your Dog to Use His Nose

As dog owners help their pets learn the rules of human society, we also put limits on how they interact with their environment.---"Don’t smell the neighbor’s butt!”---“Stop sniffing the ground!  We’re walking now.”---“Take your nose out of the fridge!”---

Dogs use their noses much more than we humans do, so give your dog a chance to sniff it!  Here are a few easy ways to let your dog use his nose. 

1. Throw some of your dog’s food in the grass and let him hunt for the tiny pieces of kibble.  

2. Using an old muffin tin, place dry food in the bottom of the tin and place tennis balls on top of the food.  Let your dog “find” the food under the tennis ball.  

3. Try stacking some egg cartons together with some dry food in between.  Click on the video below to see an example of this do-it-yourself toy.  


These are just a few simple ways you can encourage your dog to use his nose.  Use your imagination, try a few sniff-it games of your own, and let your dog hunt!

Not convinced?  Here are some more great reasons to play sniff it games with your dog. 

Hunting ...
1. Burns calories.   
If you’re watching your pet’s waistline, try some sniff games!

2. Provides mental stimulation.   
Bust your pup’s boredom by hiding some treats around the house.

3. Builds confidence.   
Increase your dog’s interest in engaging with environment by placing cookies in the yard or house for him to find.   

Friday, April 12, 2013

Choosing the Right Interactive Toy for Your Dog


If you're asking yourself the question - why interactive toys? Check out my blog entry Leaving the Bowl Behind.

Interactive Food Toys

There are a number of considerations when choosing a food toy for your dog.  Here are a few things to consider before you make a decision.
Will your dog be supervised when using the toy?  Or will you leave it with him when he's crated or alone at home?  

Toys that your dog utilizes under supervision can be somewhat less sturdyOn the other hand, toys left with your dog while unsupervised should be able to withstand concentrated chewing and a frustrated dog's attempts to retrieve the very last crumbs inside the toy.  

Here are a few toys I've found to be sturdy and typically survive most dogs' persistent attempts to retrieve the food inside.  

Star Mark Everlasting Fun Ball for Dogs
Everlasting Fun Ball: The jelly-like material is much sturdier than it appears.  
Kong Extreme Toy for Dogs Large
Kong Extreme: Marketed for aggressive chewing, strong-jawed dogs.  This is quite a sturdy toy and is frequently used by working dog handlers.


And one that is less sturdy, but an excellent toy for less persistent dogs or for use under supervision...

Omega Paw Tricky Treat™ Ball for Dogs - Medium
Tricky Treat Ball: The plastic is not all sturdy and can easily be chewed.  This is a great toy for dogs less likely to chew while retrieving the food inside. 


Do you want to be part of the game?  Or would you prefer your dog to work on them on his own? 

Some toys are specifically intended to be used under very close supervision (not at all sturdy) or require frequent reloading for your dog to enjoy.   All of the toys above (the Kong Extreme, Everlasting Fun Ball, and Tricky Treat ball) are intended for your dog to work on with little or no human aid.  Here is a toy that you can play with your dog.  The very popular Nina Ottosson line of toys fall in this category.
SPOT Seek-A-Treat Shuffle Bone Dog IQ Puzzle - Pet360
Spot Seek a Treat: Requires frequent re-loading and is not at all sturdy - but great fun for and your dog together!

How much space will your dog have to play with his toy? 

Some toys work best when the dog has a little room to play with it; others are great in any space, including a crate. The Kong is a great crate toy, as is the Everlast ball.  One of my favorite toys, the Kong Wobbler, requires a bit more space.  I find that Premier's Busy Buddy Barnacle can best be enjoyed in a slightly larger space, so it's not my first choice in a crate. 
KONG® Wobbler
Kong Wobbler: Very easy to load, but best used in a larger space.
Premier Busy Buddy Barnacle for Dogs
Barnacle: Can be used in a crate, but your dog can utilize more strategies with more room.  This toy in particular lends itself to a number different problem-solving strategies.

What type of food do you plan to use?

If you have no preference, no worries.  Some toys work better distributing kibble; others are better with small treats or even a mixture of dry and wet.  Premier's Busy Buddy line of toys seems to universally work well with kibble, though some of the toys certainly can be used with wet food and treats. 

A good comparison is the Busy Buddy Squirrel Dude and the Classic Kong.  The Kong can be stuffed in a variety of ways, but putting loose kibble in it is an incredibly easy win for most dogs.  The Squirrel Dude is somewhat similar to the classic Kong, but it has small prongs in the opening that make it ideal for use with loose kibble. 
Premier Busy Buddy Squirrel Dude for Dogs
Squirrel Dude: Not visible from the picture, but there is an opening at the bottom of the toy.  Inside the opening, there are a number of prongs that allow kibble to slowly fall out. 

Do you have concerns about your flooring or noise?

Some toys are made of hard plastic and might scuff delicate flooring or make noise on hard floors.  The Kong Wobbler is quite loud and can damage very delicate flooring.  Contrast the Wobbler with the Everlasting Fun Ball.  You'll find the material of the Everlasting Fun Ball very forgiving on floors.       

What's your budget?

There are a number of interactive toys on the market and more are appearing all the time.  But if you are on a tight budget, you can improvise some nifty toys.  Here is just one idea.
Either stack the cartons or close the lid for a simple, home-made interactive food toy.

Vegas has unstacked the egg carton and is eating the kibble he's found inside. 


Non-Food Interactive Toys

I use and prefer food toys, primarily because 1) I use them as a bowl replacement and 2) almost all dogs can be encouraged to engage with a food toy.  But recently I've seen a number non-food versions, most utilizing plush toys and tennis balls as the high value item. If you have a tennis crazy, toy-loving hound, then look for my future blog post on non-food interactive toys!


Thursday, February 14, 2013

Leaving the Bowl Behind

Are you feeding your dog out of a bowl?  If you are, you're missing out on an opportunity.  You can exponentially increase your dog's daily enrichment without a significant time investment on your part, but you have to leave the bowl behind.

Why is enrichment important for your dog?

  • If you have the bouncy dog that desperately needs a job, providing more enrichment can help to satisfy that need.
  • If your dog suffers from behavioral problems stemming from boredom, enrichment can help.  Note: Always seek professional training advice for behavioral problems including but not limited to aggression, separation anxiety, and phobias.
  • If you have an unpredictable schedule that allows you to provide for your dog's exercise needs most, but not all of the time, enrichment can help to fill that gap.

Hunt, Train, or Play for all food.

When I welcomed German Shorthaired Pointers into my life, I adopted the mantra hunt, train or play for all food.  With multiple GSPs in my house - it's served me and my sanity well!

1. Hunt: Having your dog hunt, whether for food or a trained target odor, can be a great way to feed meals.  When hunting for a target odor, I feed a very high value reward initially then add in a handful or 2 of kibble as a secondary reward.  NOTE: To see full comments in the video, you must expand to full screen.



You can even do something as simple as throwing a handful of kibble in your grass for your dog to hunt.  If you have ants in your area, put the kibble in a vented container and hide in the yard or the house. 

2. Train:  Be creative! "Training" doesn't have to be about formal training sessions.  Here are a few ideas:
  • Measure out half of your dog's dinner and reward him with a few kibbles at a time for laying down on his place while you prepare dinner. 
  • Commercial break training is great.  See an example here.
  • Does your dog have a stay?  Try this exercise!  It's quick and easy to do (breakfast exercise!) and a great way to build in distraction to your stay. Buddy's Chance covers this exercise in Master Manners.  NOTE: To see full comments in the video, you must expand to full screen.


3.  Play:  This is where I use food toys.  I've provided a clip of one type of food toy.  This toy was completely new to Vegas, the dog in the video.  Here are the stats:
Premier's Busy Buddy Barnacle
Size: Medium
Difficulty: Medium with small kibble and Difficult with large kibble.
Qty of Food Toy Holds: 1/2 cup of a medium/large size kibble
Vegas' Play Time: 17+ minutes
NOTE: To see full comments in the video, you must expand to full screen.



For more information on introducing food toys, which toys I like the best, and other fun food toy facts, check back for my blog entry Choosing & Introducing Interactive Toys.

In Conclusion
You'll notice there is quite a bit of overlap between each of these.  There is some play in training, some hunting in play, etc.  The most important thing is that you're utilizing meals for enrichment.  So leave the bowl behind, increase the enrichment that you're providing your dog, and give your dog a little more fun.  Everyone wins! 

Friday, December 7, 2012

How do I Train with Toys?

You've decided that you're going to use toys in training.  Now what?

1.  Use what your dog likes.  A toy doesn't function as a reward for your dog unless your dog likes the toy.  This is typically a trial and error process.  Does Spot like squeakers? Fluffy toys? Tennis balls? Leather?  Sheepskin?  There are so many great options for toys available on the internet.  Explore them with your dog; it will be fun!

















This dog isn't always motivated to play with toys.  The following is a quick check that he's interested in playing with this toy before we start training.  Yay or nay - does my dog like this toy?




 2.  Determine what interactions with the toy that your dog enjoys. Some examples include: throwing the toy for your dog to retrieve,


Or tugging with your dog...


Or the toy victory lap (dog receives toy and does excited dance of joy followed by zoom around the room)...


3.  Use an interaction that your dog enjoys and that also encourages your training game to continue.

Realistically, the game that is easiest to use in toy-reward obedience training is tug.  In agility, toy delivery frequently happens further away from you, so retrieve is great.  But as long as your dog is having a great time and you can get some repetitions in, pick and choose what works for you and your dog. 

Saturday, November 3, 2012

Why Train with Food?


We'll start with the premise that dog's get paid for behaviors that we like and want repeated.  Why this is? - that's another blog post!

Here are a few reasons to use food for training:

1.  If you use small, soft treats, then your dog can consume the reward and quickly be ready for another. 
Pea-sized is great for most medium and large dogs.


 2.   It's easy to deliver.  Pop one treat in the mouth - you're done!

3.  Combine #1 and #2 and that means a lot of repetitions in a short time frame are possible.


4.  You're feeding your dog everyday, 1-2 times daily, and training is best done in frequent, short sessions.  It's a match made in heaven.  Make feeding time a training moment.  Better yet, measure out your dog's daily ration of kibble and use it throughout the day.    


Check out this video to see an example of a "commercial" training session - that means it's short enough to do during a commercial break.  In a little over a minute, you see stay with distractions, down, sit, stand, recall, and left finish.You can also see how quickly the tiny pieces of kibble are eaten, and how quickly my dog is ready for another treat. 




All dogs must eat - most even love it!  Most dogs will happily work for food in low- to moderate-distraction environments.  Many will work for food in any environment.  If your dog doesn't - well, that's another blog post!

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Do I need a hungry dog to train?

The simple answer is yes.  

When using a reward-based system to train, you have to have a reward! This is typically food, praise, play, a toy, or a combination of these.  Food is easy to deliver and allows for repeated repetitions within a short time frame, which makes it a popular choice.  So working on the assumption that you've chosen to use food in training, read on!

The hungrier your dog is, the higher value your food reward will be.  Most dogs can skip a meal without negative consequences, but if you're not sure of this - ask your vet!  Many of  my training sessions are planned, and my dogs eat twice daily.  I can easily skip a feeding before each planned training session.  For my dogs, this means I can use their meal for training, if I'm training in a medium distraction environment or I'm reinforcing behaviors for which my dogs have some reinforcement history.  Watch your dogs weight.  If he's underweight, increase the calories at meal times or only decrease meals before training rather than skipping entirely.   

Use higher value food for highly distracting environments and for teaching new behaviors.  This is a good rule of thumb when training with food.  Some dogs will work for kibble wherever they are and are perfectly willing to learn new behaviors with whatever bits you happen to have in your pocket.  Other dogs require a very high value reward if you change the environment even a little.  If you're unsure, follow the general guideline.  But always plan to have several different rewards of varying values with you when you train. 


The more complex answer...

Sometimes having a hungry dog can be an impediment to training.

If you have a voracious eater who works for any food anywhere, you may have some special challenges. If your dog loses his mind in the presence of food, you may plan to feed regularly scheduled meals before sessions just to keep him from being frantic when you get the food out to train.  Don't confuse enthusiasm for a frantic or anxious dog.  Enthusiasm is good; frantic or anxious actually impedes learning.  This is not most dogs, but you'll likely know if you have one.

Here are some clues for those of you with the food frantic or anxious dog.  Your dog normally takes treats nicely from your hand, but when he's hungry he grabs hard at food and isn't careful with his teeth.  Your dog isn't able to perform well-learned behaviors in the presence of food when he's hungry.  These are not necessarily indicators but can be clues for some dogs. 

Some dogs with a sensitive stomach may need a meal before training to help their digestion.  If you're using a large quantity of high value treats, the change from the sensitive-stomached dog's diet can be unsettling.  While it is always a good idea to use high quality food, even food choices that are good for your dog can be unsettling to his stomach simply because they're different.  Of course, making wise choices with your training food is very important, but the best choices are typically discovered through trial and error since dogs are unique in their reactions to food.  A few general rules to follow include:

1. Avoid large quantities of fatty, salty, or rich foods;
2. Muscle meat is usually tolerated better than organ meat; and
3. The canned version of your dog's food is usually well tolerated in small quanities.      

If you're using very high value food that is rich, fatty, salty, or otherwise not as healthy as your dog's regular food, then feeding a partial meal before training may be wise.  Think of this as eating pie but no entree beforehand - simply not a good idea for some dogs.  Limit these types of foods, but if you plan to use them, help your dog's tummy as much as you can. 

"My dog isn't interested in working for food..."

Look for my upcoming blog post on increasing food motivation!